Monday 30 March 2009

The Renaissance Club

When Kingsbarns opened for play almost a decade ago, I was blown away. I thought it was a one-off miracle that a new course could look and play so good. Every now and again a course will open with similar ambitions of grandeur, but none ever live up to the marketing hype. That is until I played 18 holes at The Renaissance Club near Muirfield towards the end of last summer.

Along with a couple of my friends from Scotland and a few others from Georgia, I enjoyed a very hospitable day out at the new private club with it's founding principal, Derek Siewert. The day got off to the best possible start with a few early morning 'sharpeners', and some food from the outdoor grill. The clubhouse and lodge were still under construction, but even from the temporary facilities you could sense that this place certainly had the makings of a successful private members' club. Even as guests, we were made to feel right at home.

Normally, a combination of golf and rain doesn't really excite me too much. But on this occasion I had a ball. Tom Doak (responsible for Pacific Dunes in Oregon and Cape Kidnappers in New Zealand) was the chosen architect because the management team felt he could deliver justice to the land's natural beauty. I can understand their thought process. Doak is regarded as the founder of the minimalist movement when it comes to golf course design, and when you have a special piece of land such as this, why over-complicate things? The result is a classical, aesthetically pleasing and challenging layout. It doesn't have the drama of Old Head for example, but a more traditional kind of beauty provides eye candy for the connoisseur. I wouldn't class the course as out-and-out links, but it comes very close. I tend to reserve this term for the fiery terrain associated with the likes of St Andrews or Prestwick, but this doesn't detract from the overall enjoyment of the course. There are certainly holes that invite a low, running approach shot, and I was also impressed with the rugged styling of the bunkers.

A testing opening nine calls for shot-making and an emphasis is placed on accuracy from the tee. The 236 yard 2nd lets you know from the outset that you have to work hard for level numbers. I thought the 6th was an excellent par 5. At 577 yards, and with the dogleg positioned perfectly, this is a true three shot test. The 9th is a silent assassin. So many courses now just throw in a bunch of boring generic-looking short holes. The trick with this hole is hitting the correct part of the green. Pin placement is all important. Leave yourself on the wrong side of the green, and you can pencil in a four before you leave the tee.

The course really begins to bare it's teeth at the turn. A string of uphill, demanding holes leads up to a terrific panoramic view of the Firth of Forth. The views from the 12th green are particularly amazing. The par 5 14th is a lot of fun. Downhill, and reachable in two, I'm sure this will prove to be a terrific matchplay hole. The changes in elevation and the camber of the fairways throughout this section of the course are truly beautiful. It's one of those courses that when you play it for the first time, you find yourself checking the hole number on every tee hoping that No.18 is still some way off.

Prospective members are required to buy a non-interest bearing Membership Bond, which is currently valued at £45,000. If I had that kind of dough burning a hole in my back pocket, the Range Rover Sport could find itself slipping further down the wish list. The Renaissance Club is a fabulous course, and if like me you don't have a spare 45K, you better start getting friendly with someone that does!

Friday 27 March 2009

Top 5 Courses

I'm interested to hear what everybody's Top 5 courses are in Ireland and Scotland combined. I'll start the ball rolling with:

1. St Andrews - The Old Course
2. Royal Portrush - Dunluce Course
3. Kingsbarns
4. Tralee
5. Royal County Down


Click the 'Comment' button below, and post your rankings.


Thursday 26 March 2009

Success of Irish Golfers on Tour

With a population of less than six million people, Ireland is most certainly over-achieving with regard to the level of success currently being enjoyed by it's touring professionals. Michael Hoey and Gareth Maybin have made excellent starts to their 2009 schedules after coming through last year's Challenge Tour. Graeme McDowell is a multiple winner and was a member of the last Ryder Cup Team at Valhalla. Rory McIlroy recently picked up silverware at The Dubai Desert Classic. Darren Clarke has a golfing CV that includes everything but a Major Championship. Padraig Harrington has a great chance of picking up his third consecutive Major at this year's Masters in April. But why does Ireland continue to consistently produce such outstanding golfing talent?

All of the above names have one thing in common, and that is playing amateur golf under the governance of The Golfing Union of Ireland. The opportunities given to golfers at a young age is something other associations should be keen to copy. From early teenage years, they are assisted with free coaching and perhaps most importantly have access to an excellently managed series of competitive events. Both 72 hole and matchplay tournaments are incorporated into Boys, Youths and Senior schedules. The GUI have always looked to provide additional assistance to the younger generation. For example - they designate a number of spots at national amateur championships for boys that have showed promise in other events throughout the season but may not have the necessary handicap to normally join the field.

Another defining factor is the quality of courses that these events are played on. The four regional championships, namely The North, South, East and West are staged at Royal Portrush, Lahinch, Baltray and Rosses Point. I can't imagine any other national association being able to host week-long tournaments on four of it's top rated courses. All the golfers now enjoying success on tour have made their way through the ranks at these events, and all have flourished in or even dominated the amateur scene in Ireland at some point in their careers. Surely it is an advantage to have played under this intense pressure on some of the world's finest courses at such a critical stage in their development. It makes it just that little bit easier to bridge the gulf towards the paid ranks. The strength in depth of these amateur tournaments is growing year on year. A decade ago, anyone entering off a scratch handicap would have been seen as a possible favourite to win the event. At last years Irish Amateur Open, 33 'plus-one' golfers found themselves on the waiting list. Bearing in mind there were 120 competitors on the drawsheet, this is a staggering statistic.

It also seems that there is an immense amount of pride involved in capturing a national amateur title in Ireland. Perhaps in other countries this would be regarded as an individual achievement, but here the award is enjoyed and cherished as a club. The silverware itself is always displayed in the clubhouse trophy cabinet, and photos of the great moment will adorn the walls of the members' bar for future generations. The GUI and its clubs have done an excellent job in conveying the ethos and history of it championships to the younger generation. Could this be one of the reasons why Irish golfers that have reached the pinnacle of the sport, like Harrington, remain humble and thankful for their achievements in the professional game?

I think the trend is set to continue. In a few weeks time, I have a sneaking suspicion that the colour of the Augusta blazer may finally suit the nationality of it's owner.

Wednesday 25 March 2009

Valley Links, Portrush

At only £35 for a weekday round, this is the best value golf course in Ireland by a country mile. It may not make my Top 5 in the country, but it certainly falls inside the Top 10. You have heard the statement, "Were it not for it's more famous sister course...", well this time it's true.

The Valley sits between the Dunluce Course and the sea, flanked by enormous dunes on either side. At only 6300 yards, you may be forgiven for thinking it could be a walkover. But it's a par 70, and course management is at a premium here. Although it's relatively short, there aren't too many holes that can be overpowered by long hitting. A lot of patience is required, and it's one of those courses where the short holes can play even tougher downwind than they do normally.

It is fairly common to reach the sixth tee with the scorecard still intact, but the next three holes rarely yield a string of pars. The sixth is a colossal 237 yard short hole. Before you reach for the 3-iron, I should also mention that it plays into the wind and uphill. It's one of those occasions where you have to forsake your dignity and reach for the big dog.

If somehow you manage to get through that one unscathed, try the seventh out for size. It weighs in at 437 yards, and you must hit the right-half of the fairway or be faced with a semi-blind approach. The rough is particularly punishing on this hole, and if sampled, you will be walking off the green with a five at best. Make four, and it almost feels like a birdie.

The eighth is a mere 408 yards - again into the prevailing wind. This time, a fairway wood is required to find a raised plateau of fairway, as driver can often run through into the long stuff. The hole then doglegs slightly to the right, where the green is protected by a curtain of gorse and a run-off area to the left. You look back from the ninth tee, and try to figure out how you dropped so many shots in the space of half an hour!

Although the course is owned by Royal Portrush, it is also home to a club of local members by the name of Rathmore Golf Club. Their clubhouse is situated near to the first tee of the course, and it is everything a golf club should be. Full of friendly characters, a thriving junior section, and a bar that requires the Guinness van to stop off twice a week.

Rathmore is a club with many famous sons. Former captain, Fred Daly, won the Open Championship at Hoylake in 1947. His clubs were graciously donated by his family and are on display in the foyer. It is also home to European Tour and Ryder Cup player - Graeme McDowell. Perhaps to follow in his footsteps is young Alan Dunbar, who has recently been selected for the GB&I Walker Cup Team.

The Valley isn't something to do on your day off in between playing Royal County Down and Royal Portrush, it's a reason to visit Northern Ireland in itself.

Tuesday 24 March 2009

Old Tom Morris - Brought Back To Life

St Andrews is very lucky to have a character that enriches the fabric of the city with his wit, artistic talent, and thespian skill. He acts as a great ambassador for The Auld Grey Toon on his many travels, an exploit that is only bettered by his reciprocal willingness to welcome visitors in. The man in question is David Joy - a fourth generation born and bred St Andrean.

For those of you that have walked down the back corridor at The Old Course Hotel - David's detailed and lifelike drawings of the Open Champions adorn the walls just past the desk of The Golf Steward. He is also responsible for adding a pictorial golfing theme to many of the pubs in town, The Pilmour and The Dunvegan to name but two. In fact, you may have already seen David on TV without knowing it - he played his most famous role as Old Tom Morris in a series of Titleist ads alongside John Cleese. The tweed jacket and make-up aren't just for the screen however. David is world renowned at portraying the most iconic figure in the history of golf. I have been fortunate enough to witness this performance on three different occasions now, all at golf functions in St Andrews itself. Old Tom is perhaps the most unusual and effective after-dinner speaker imaginable. He begins by running through his life, his love of golf, and the sad passing away of his son (also an Open Champion). Questions from the floor are then answered with humour and spontaneity. Each time I've seen it, I've been more impressed. It's a different show on each occasion; David simply slides into the costume and morphs into Old Tom. It's impromptu and it's the ultimate entertainment for anyone with a penchant for the history of the game.

Saturday 21 March 2009

A Round at St Andrews with David Humphreys

On a day that offers Ireland it's first chance at Grand Slam glory in 61 years, it seems only fair to reminisce about a round of golf with one of it's most successful ever No. 10's - David Humphreys. Throughout periods of national unrest, the two gentlemanly pursuits of rugby and golf were the only two mainstream sports to compete under the umbrella of 'Ireland' with no shame or ridicule. Representing your country at either one of these two disciplines was far more important than any political sway. Both are great examples of true amateur competition - 100% commitment shown during the game, but the decency to pull on a blazer afterwards and have a drink with your opponent. Win, lose or draw.

David is a very genuine and likeable fella, but one of these annoying people that are naturally blessed with an inbuilt talent for many sports. "What do you play off these days?", I asked on the first tee of The Old Course. "Probably 6 or 8, but I haven't played in quite a while", he replied.

It was probably about the stage when he lipped out on the tenth green to go three-under that I realised I had been sold one of his trademark dummies. In fact, had it not been for an errant tee-shot on the long fourteenth he would have surely broken par on his Old Course debut.

Although winning over 70 caps for Ireland, I'd say David's finest hour was guiding Ulster to an unlikely European Cup triumph in 1999 at Lansdowne Road. I was lucky enough to be in the terraces that fateful afternoon in Dublin, and to witness one of the great sporting moments in the history of Ulster Rugby will last with me forever. The slice on 14 will probably stay in David's mind for quite some time too.

Friday 20 March 2009

The Witchery, Edinburgh

Many of our clients are just as enthusiastic about food and wine as they are about golf, and we take great pleasure in providing them with the best dinner reservations that Scotland has to offer.

There are a whole host of fantastic restaurants to be found across the length and breadth of the country including The Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews, Rogano in Glasgow and Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles. But in my opinion, one stands out above all others. The Witchery, located just yards from Edinburgh Castle, has it all. Mouthwatering food, award-winning wine lists and charismatic staff all housed in spectacular sixteenth century architecture.
The very best produce is sourced and prepared by some of the country's finest chefs in order to deliver a simple, classical menu bursting with flavour. Lindisfarne Oysters, Anstruther Crab, lightly smoked Barberry Duck, and Terrine of Wild Rabbit all feature on the list of starters. For Entree, the restaurant is proud to serve Lobster, Steak Tartare, Speyside Venison and a collection of other hearty, unfussy dishes in keeping with the aura of the whole experience.
Its comprehensive list of almost 1,000 wines covers all of the great wine producing areas, varieties, prices and styles with a special selection of seventeen available by the glass. As a Chevalier of the Order of the Tasse de Vin in Burgundy, owner James Thomson is a regular buyer of fine wines in cask at the annual Hospice de Beaune auctions each winter and sometimes these wines from his private cellar may be available to enjoy with your meal.

It is likely you will be based elsewhere for much of your golfing schedule in Scotland, but should you require a night of extra indulgence in the nation's capital, The Witchery has seven theatrical and decadent suites which regularly book out several months in advance. They are individually themed, and it's rather difficult to describe how much effort and no doubt expense has gone into furnishing these gothic masterpieces. Take 'The Guardroom' for example. It consists of a dramatic red and gold hall, a sitting room adorned with various military uniforms, a romantic four-poster bed and an oak-panelled bathroom complete with roll-top bath.

Visiting Edinburgh and not experiencing The Witchery would be like leaving St. Andrews without playing The Old Course. If you would like any further information, or have it added to your itinerary, just get in touch at the usual e-mail: jim@connoisseurgolf.com.

Thursday 19 March 2009

The 11th at St Andrews

The Old Course only has two par 3's - the eighth and the wonderful eleventh. It is widely regarded as one of the best short holes in world golf and has been copied by many different golf architects around the globe, most notably Alister MacKenzie.

It measures 174 yards from the back tees and is yet another great example of why length plays second fiddle to good design. Unusually for a championship course, this hole cuts across the fairway of another, the 7th. The main dangers here are the greenside pot bunkers. Everyone knows about the challenges associated with Road Hole bunker on 17, but in my opinion the little beast that guards the front of the green at 11 is much worse. If you are anywhere near the face of 'Strath', you simply have no choice but to play out backwards or sideways. A pulled tee shot will often find another horrible spot - 'Hill' bunker. The trouble with this one is not only the steep face, but depending on the pin location you will need to fly the ball at least twenty yards - one of those really tricky escapes that require a perfect contact. The green itself slopes severely from back to front, with the exception of a little plateau top right. This is one of the many double-greens at St Andrews and shares with the par-4 7th. You can easily find yourself here with a putt in excess of 50 yards. In 1921, the great Bobby Jones was even brought to his knees by this hole. "Confounded and confused", he ripped up his scorecard and walked back to the clubhouse! The course grew on him however, and later in life he would regard the magical links as his favourite track.

If you walk off here with a 3 you can happily wipe your brow and move on to the next tee.

Monday 16 March 2009

St Andrews Watering Holes


In my opinion, a round of golf is not completed until you have washed it down with a cold pint of Tennents lager. St Andrews is not only known for world-class golf, but it is also blessed with some fantastic bars and pubs. Within a five minute walk of the 18th of The Old Course you will find twenty or so bars, all of whom have been lucky enough to do business with me... many on several occasions.

The most famous of them all is probably The Dunvegan. It sits on the corner of North Street and Golf Place, a mere nine-iron from the 18th green (this has actually been proven, and the said implement hangs on the wall above the corner snug). Jack and Sheena are amiable, colloquial hosts who give the same time and hospitality to every customer. The framed photos of many of the world's best golfers adorn the golf-themed interior, including pictures of the owners enjoying a drink with Arnold Palmer, Tiger, Payne Stewart and Fred Couples to name but a few. These four walls have probably heard every golf yarn ever told. Many of the St Andrews caddies meet here for bacon rolls and coffee in the morning before attempting something a little stronger post-round. Add all this atmosphere to arguably the best steak in town, and you have one of the most talked about golfing pubs in the world.

During my University years, the liveliest bar in town was The Pilmour - just around the corner on North Street. Kenny and Lenny were the guys at the helm, and they got this place so busy that it was often known to run out of glasses and ice! It was one of the few bars where students, locals and visiting golfers all got inebriated in perfect harmony. Unfortunately such a good time was had that it caused two separations, one divorce and a major shortening of many people's life expectancy. How I miss sitting at the bar in my softspikes, chatting to the tourists about their day on the Old Course. I probably learnt more in The Pilmour that I did in four years at St Andrews University. Kenny now has a great little pub just two streets across at the Westport, named Drouthy Neebors. Call in and have a pint, you will be made more than welcome.

Connoisseur Golf enjoy a special relationship with the New Golf Club, and our clients can utilize a temporary clubhouse membership here throughout their trip. You can even sit at the window seat, where Old Tom Morris had his very last drink before falling down the stairs on his way to the toilet. It's a great place to watch the 1st and 18th holes, and the food from executive chef Martin Reid is some of the best in town.

If only golf was played over 19 holes, I still may be able to hold my own.

Saturday 14 March 2009

Best Front Nine in Ireland


You may have read my post on Tralee, where the back nine is truely out of this world. But where is the best opening nine in Ireland?

In my opinion, a few courses can stake a claim. The Dunluce Course at Royal Portrush has some terrific holes on the way out, not least the fifth, which is one of my all time favourites. A panoramic, sharp dogleg right from an elevated tee. I am yet to see a travelling golfer that hasn't reached for his camera at some point along this celebrated par 4. It's sister course - The Valley - also has some spectacular dune-lined holes (this has GOT to be the best value for money course in the Emerald Isle). Royal County Down has the remarkable views of the Mourne Mountains, in addition to some seriously ferocious holes. And of course there's Old Head, where every single view from every single angle looks like it's been taken from a golfing fairytale. But my pick for the best front nine would be a lesser known links course located on the northern coast at the mouth of the River Bann. Portstewart is somewhat a tale of two halves. Not that the inward half is poor by any stretch of the imagination, but 1 - 9 are seriously outstanding.

The first hole at Machrihanish is often related to as the best opener in links golf, but anyone who has played Portstewart will disagree. The tee shot is from an elevated tee (and I mean elevated) to a tight fairway that doglegs to the right. On the left is thick rough, and on the right is gorse - closely followed by sand and sea. A well hit drive seems to hang in the air for days. One of those rare occasions when you can feel like a professional golfer, holding pose until the ball finally lands. A mid-iron approach to a large green with very teasing subtle breaks is how you will more than likely complete your bogey.

I could literally spend hours running through the picturesque challenge of each hole, but the second is also a little special. Another raised tee allows you to hit into a deep cavernous valley, from which the dunes appear overwhelming. These aren't your little run of the mill dunes that Phil Mickleson could clear with a flop shot. These are dunes that would take ten minutes to climb if you could bear the vertigo at the top. This time a three-tiered green awaits, and don't be short or you could find it coming back to your feet.

The short sixth is Portstewart's version of No.17 at Sawgrass. Although only measuring 130 yards, you must hit the green. There is no water here, but everythings falls away from the fringe to the bottom of huge gulleys on every side. Missing the target here can leave you as much as a full sand-iron for your second. A terrific little hole, and one that can play extremely brutal if the wind gets up.

The other holes are every bit as aesthetically pleasing and challenging, those are just my personal favourites. I was fortunate enough to find myself playing in the Ulster Schools Cup over this course when I was younger and slimmer. I remember going down to a very good Irish amateur by 4&3 in the final, and over the course of that week I fell in love with the place. It's dramatic, testing and beautiful all at the same time. So if you you are embarking on a golf trip to Northern Ireland, don't even consider leaving this amazing course off your itinerary. It's just too good to miss.

Friday 13 March 2009

Blending Golf and Whisky


Golf and whisky is a marriage made in heaven. Lets hope that's where Old Tom Morris finished up anyway. Tom was a regular at The New Golf Club which overlooks the 18th fairway of The Old Course, where he would quite often be found beside a pint of Black Strap and a whisky chaser. On Sunday 24th May 1908, he rose to go to the toilet and was never to return. Tom had fallen down the stairs and left the golfing world at the age of 87. I can certainly think of worse ways to say the final goodbye.

Connoisseur Golf have combined with Scotland's most respected name in Whisky - David Wishart of The University of St. Andrews - to offer visiting golfers a light education on the the history of Scotland's national drink and the differing characteristics between many of it's most favourite brands. David is a captivating host, and engages his guests with charm and wit throughout. He has a great aptitude for being able to translate the taste of a whisky into words, and this is probably why he has spoken on the subject at various conventions throughout he world.

David's book - 'Whisky Classified' aims to help the newcomer navigate through the maze of single malt whiskies available to the consumer. If you like a particular malt whisky, then it tells you what other brands taste similar. On the other hand, if you want to diversify your collection, it helps you choose a range of malts that taste different. It is a reflection of David's philosophy that whisky shouldn't be graded on a scale of 1-10 by a committee of experts, but differentiated by taste - because everyone's palate is unique.
It is also now possible to embark on specialized Golf & Whisky Tours, which combine both loves into one itinerary. You could be playing Royal Dornoch in the morning, and find yourself on a guided journey around Glenmorangie Distillery in the afternoon. Or, if like me, your golf is declining at a rate of knots - turn the day on it's head and get merry before commencing play.

If you have any questions about Golf & Whisky Tours in Scotland, or if you would like to set up a night with David Wishart as part of your golfing pilgrimage, get in touch at jim@connoisseurgolf.com. Slainte Mhath!

Thursday 12 March 2009

The Old Course in Reverse

It is only relatively recently in it's 600 year history that the Old Course has been played in an anti-clockwise fashion. Even in the time of Old Tom Morris, it was played in reverse - i.e. Teeing off at 1 and playing for the 17th green, then teeing off at 18 and playing for the 16th green. The Links Trust now set the course up in this original form for a couple of days each year, with the next available dates being the 3rd, 4th and 6th of April.

I've managed to play this layout on a couple of occasions, and it increases the difficulty of the course by at least a couple of notches. It becomes tough to get an accurate distance for many shots, and some of the holes even have blind second shots to the green. The landing areas on the fairway are extremely small in many cases, and it seems as if the trouble is more visually noticeable.

A good example of this last point is on what we now know as the 12th fairway. Except on this course you will be playing from the 13th tee to the 11th green. Usually, this hole is known for all its 'invisible' trouble, a collection of pot bunkers stretched across the middle of the fairway that tend to catch more than their fair share of balls. Only on this layout, the bunkers are there staring you square in the face. It's actually tough to find a line off the tee, and usually ends up as more of a hit and hope. Obviously on many holes, the definition of the rough is now made with a different routing in mind and it doesn't particularly suit the original course, but the Links Trust do a great job in making it playable. Even with all the new maps, scorecards and instructions made available on the first tee, it is not uncommon to see a fourball ambling across the links like a group of lost sheep. The excitement of not really knowing what faces you next is all part of the enjoyment.

It is extremely interesting however plotting your way around this course, and seeing the kind of shots that some of golf's legends were faced with in days gone by.

Tuesday 10 March 2009

Prestwick - Birthplace to the Open


Many golfers around the world treat St Andrews as The Home of Golf, and I would have no argument with that. But what many people fail to remember is that Prestwick played host to the first twelve 'Open Championships'. The first red Moroccan belt was won by Willie Park of Musselburgh with a score of 174 over two rounds. After a decade or so, Prestwick, The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers and The Royal & Ancient Golf Club of St Andrews pitched together £30 to purchase the Claret Jug. This was first played for in 1872 and was won by Young Tom Morris.


In today's modern game Prestwick is widely regarded as too short to host a major championship, but it continues to provide a stern test for many amateur events, including the British Amateur - which was last won here in 2001 by Shandon Park member Michael Hoey.


It riles me slightly that Prestwick is not included on the countless touring itineraries that are set up by visiting golfers each year. Not only is it a tremendous golf course to play, but the feelings induced from the history surrounding it can only be second to The Old Course at St Andrews. But perhaps what really upsets me most is the unfair stigma associated with Prestwick as not not being visitor friendly. Ian Bunch, Secretary of Prestwick, has sat on the board of a number of tourism orientated projects to try and encourage visitors to the Ayrshire coastline. Indeed, the club is very welcoming to visiting golfers, and I would be the first in recommending you play here.


It's exactly as links golf should be - rough and ragged with the exception of excellently kept tees and greens. It's not as long as many of the championship courses in Scotland, but this simply makes the layout more inviting to the amateur. One thing Prestwick does require is a strong mental game. Not only on the tees, but more significantly on the approach shots. Holes that appear tame only begin to show their teeth on the second shot. Like Elie in yesterday's post, this is a tremendous matchplay course. There are many birdies to be had, but blink for a second and you can see yourself running up a string of fives.


The hospitality at Prestwick is just as enjoyable as the course itself, and I believe an important part of any golf day. Like any esteemed golf club with a revered reputation, treat the club with the respect it deserves and you will have a memorable day. But be sure to indulge in a Kummel, one of the local delicacies. Just remember not to drive afterwards...


Monday 9 March 2009

Elie - Fife's Hidden Gem


Twenty minutes south of St Andrews lies one of the most enjoyable courses you will find anywhere in Scotland. Golf has been played at Elie perhaps as early as the 15th century. Officially known as 'The Golf House Club', the course we know today was laid out in 1896, and the course has a direct link to the great James Braid - he played golf here as a boy. At only 6200 yards, there are no par 5's and only two par 3's. This long stretch of fours may appear bland to those who haven't played the links, but let me assure you nothing could be further from the truth. In it's time, Elie has been a final qualifying course for The Open Championship, and has played host to a number of notable professional and amateur tournaments. It is a joy to play from start to finish.

On the first tee you will be cordially greeted by the starter, who's hut sits under an impressive looking thirty foot periscope. This wonderful, quirky feature was retrieved from HMS Excaliber - built in 1955. From here the starter can view the fairway ahead, which is blind from the tee, and let golfers know when it is safe to play. On many courses, I am a little weary of blind tee shots, but on Elie they definitely add to the character of the course. These are usually combined with large landing areas, with the first being an example, and they don't really detract from the playability of the course. What is so exciting about Elie, is the risk-reward nature of many of it's holes. For this reason it acts as a tremendous matchplay venue. There is a great chance of making birdie or bogey at almost every hole.

The best stretch of holes are found running adjacent to the beach at the far end of the course. The 12th is one of those holes like the 1st at Machrihanish where you must decide how much of the carry to bite off, and then hope for a good connection. A brave tee shot leaves a mid-iron for your approach, but a nervous bail-out to the right will result in a long iron or fairway wood from a much tougher angle. The 13th also doglegs slightly to the left. This time a much more friendly tee shot invites you to a fantastic view of a raised green sitting below the picturesque ampitheatre of a series of steep cliffs. The front nine, and loop at the corner is most certainly the place to make your score because the later part the round is a lot more challenging.

If you're spending a week in St Andrews, this is without doubt a course I suggest you add to your itinerary. And after you've experienced the very welcoming hospitality of the clubhouse, don't forget to drop in to the nearby Ship Inn and enjoy a malt within the confines of one of Scotland's best pubs.

Saturday 7 March 2009

Tralee - The King of Kerry


The south-west of Ireland holds a multitude of legendary links courses. For most people, Ballybunion gets the nod as the finest jewel in the crown, but for me, I think Tralee is a golfing heaven on earth. Or as Wayne Westner once said, "If heaven is not like this, I don't want to go there".

Tralee was Arnold Palmer's first foray into course design anywhere in Europe. The Atlantic Ocean is clearly visible from every single hole and the views are nothing short of spectacular. It is one of those magical places where sunlight brings the humps and hollows of the fairways alive. The dunes become that little bit more noticeable as the coastal breeze sweeps through the rugged collection of grasses - waving like a beacon for balatas. The course actually begins rather benignly however, and it is possible to mix sightseeing with relatively decent scoring for the first hour or so. The first major challenge appears on the eighth. A shortish par 4 that lures the driver from your bag. Of course there is no real need, a long iron leaves a wedge or shortish club to the green. But like 99% of amateur golfers, I always hit driver... especially downwind. I can justify this by thinking that there's a slim chance of knocking it on in one. But in hindsight I can't recall ever making par. It's a classic case of showing that every hole on the scorecard doesn't need to be overly long, something that many of today's modern architects should sit up and take note. This is a great example.

If the first nine holes are beautiful, the back side is mesmerizing. Palmer humbly quoted, "I may have designed the front nine, but surely God designed the back nine". The terrain he had to work with is rather special. These holes have everything - changes in elevation, risk-reward, demanding tee-shots, shots that test every club in the bag. It is tough to pick one to focus on in particular, but the 12th is a truly fantastic golf hole. A long downhill par 4 of 460 yards, the right-side of a tight fairway is the goal off the tee. It opens out slightly after this, and everything tends to kick off to the left. There's a wall on the left and punishing rough to the right, so to finish on the short-stuff in crucial. A decent drive leaves you with a long iron or fairway wood to a raised plateau green. A deep chasm collects everything that misses to the left, and short-siding yourself isn't really an option either. Basically it's a game of hit the green in two, or work hard for your five. Walking off the green with a four here would give a feeling of tremendous satisfaction. I am yet to experience it.

On the way back to your hotel (you will most probably be based in Killarney), make a point of stopping in at The Oyster Tavern - just a few miles from the club on the Fenit coast. The bar has a great atmosphere, but better still is the quality of the seafood. The menu is very reasonably priced, and it is a great way to finish off a great day on one of Ireland's best golf courses.

Friday 6 March 2009

Machrihanish by Sea


There are a number of golf courses in the world that everyone has heard of, but not so many have actually played. With many of these famous layouts, the reason is exclusivity and a small member list that reads like the Forbes 100; but with Machrihanish this couldn't be further from the truth. It is one of the most welcoming golf clubs you are likely to find. The answer in this case is it's geographical location. Machrihanish sits nestled on the southern tip of Mull of Kintyre. As the crow flies, its not too far from many of the championship courses in the west of Scotland, but it is a full 165 mile drive from Glasgow by road. This distance may not sound like a lot if you were cruising up I-95, but the quality of roads in this part of the country leave a lot to be desired. Fine for leisurely Sunday sightseeing, but not conducive to getting somewhere in a hurry. Helicopter is the ideal form of transportation on this occasion (a 15 minute journey), but for many golfing tourists this isn't financially feasible.
Two years ago, Wilson Smith and his son Robin came up with the novel solution of moving golfers there by chartered speed boat. This exciting new service takes only an hour from Troon Marina. When docked at Campbeltown, a chauffeured vehicle then completes the 10 minute journey to the first tee. I was very kindly invited to experience the transfer for myself last Spring. The 'Kintyre Express' is an 11 metre Redbay Stormforce R.I.B., with a centrally heated fully enclosed cabin. The craft holds 12 golfers comfortably in large aircraft style seats. I was taken aback by how smooth the journey was for such a relatively small boat. Skipper Wilson is a very affable character, and his great story-telling ability makes the sailing seem like no time. The views from the boat are incredible. With Arran on the right, and the Ailsa Craig viewable to the left (apologies for my lack of nautical terminology), everyone had their cameras at the ready. Porpoises, dolphins, minke whales, and basking whales have all been spotted by Wilson and Robin, and the boat is a registered spotter for the Sea Search Foundation.
Machrihanish itself is a wonderful golf course. It is world renowned for having one of the best opening holes in golf. The best line from the back tees requires a 200 yard carry over the Atlantic Ocean. The layout isn't overly long, but it is a shotmakers course. Doglegs right and left, along with challenging short par 4's that require some real thinking on the tee. The mid to high handicapper may want to bring a few spare Titleists because the rough here is genuine links rough - rugged, and just like it should be. If it were not for the club's location, I have a feeling Machrihanish would feature much higher on the lists of many people's favourite courses. Perhaps the Kintyre Express will go a long way to making this beautiful links course more accessible for many travelling golfers.

Thursday 5 March 2009

A round at St. Andrews with Roger Cleveland

Most serious golfers at some point over the past three decades have enjoyed the feel and diverse playability of a Cleveland wedge. In 1979, Cleveland Golf began as a company making excellent replicas of clubs from the 1940's and 1950's. Today, Roger Cleveland is Chief of Golf Club Design at Callaway Golf. Aside from having the lead input into new products and designs, he personally modifies and tweaks the clubs of many of the world's top golfers by hand. It was a pleasure for Connoisseur Golf to host Roger and his travelling party back in October, 2008. Their trip consisted of a St Andrews based tour playing three courses - Carnoustie, Kingsbarns and The Old Course. On arrival, the group were very keen for me to join them on the links, and I was more than happy to oblige. Having been a member at St. Andrews since 2000, I have probably been lucky enough to play The Old Course in excess of 300 times. However, teeing it up with my distinguished playing partner brought back those nervy feelings on the first tee that I hadn't experienced for quite a few years. Luckily, I managed to pull a decent swing out from somewhere, and sent the ball down the middle of the enormous opening fairway. I was only one shot into my round, and I was already reaching for my 49 degree, gunmetal Cleveland wedge. It felt a little surreal pulling it from the bag and preparing to line up my approach. The execution of this shot was wasn't quite as successful as it's predecessor. A little thin, and a long way right, the ball managed to somehow clear the burn and come to a stop on the right edge of the green. I quickly covered the clubhead with my hand and returned it to it's home, hoping Roger wouldn't see how I had just butchered a straightforward shot with one of his beautiful creations. Although at the forefront of golf design technology, Roger is a traditionalist on the course. His classical balanced swing, and tweed bonnet make him look like he's just played 18 holes with Bobby Jones. We probably play to a similar level, but Roger is one of golf's great gentlemen who prefers not to talk too much of handicaps - he simply enjoys the imagination of shot-making, and adapting his game to the challenges that the course throws up. There were quite a few friendly 'gimme's' over the next four hours, but Roger roughly shot 74 to my 76. He made four birdies, and didnt really look in trouble at any point. It was great to see how he approached many of the shots around the green. Where I would often pull out the putter from 20 yards, he was hitting these beautiful little checked wedge shots to within inches of the hole. Hopefully I will get the opportunity to pick up another few pointers in the not too distant future. There were a lot of laughs shared between our fourball, and I look forward with interest to the next installment.




Wednesday 4 March 2009

Cream of Irish Golf to open new tees at Portrush


Connoisseur Golf has heard speculation that four of Ireland's top professional golfers, namely Padraig Harrington, Rory McIlroy, Graeme McDowell and Darren Clarke will tee it up early this summer to officially open the newly lengthened Dunluce Course at Royal Portrush. The fantasy foursome all have a love of the famous links, and all at some point in their amateur careers found success over the layout consistently ranked in upper echelons of every Top 100 Courses ever compiled. Although an extremely tight track under tournament conditions, many have felt that the course needed stretched beyond its 6900 yards. Perhaps the recent alterations to the length of the course may re-install some of the fear faced by top golfers in years gone by.


At the precocious age of 16, McIlroy destroyed the previous course record of 64 by 3 strokes. His 61 (coming home in 28) included nine birdies and an eagle. It was probably at this point when the public perception of McIlroy as a great young amateur turned more to hopes of a possible golfing genius.


McDowell swept through the field here in 2000 at the Irish Amateur Close Championship defeating fellow international Andrew McCormick by 7&6 in the final.


Harrington played a host of amateur events at Portrush in the early to mid 1990's, and made it to the final of The North Of Ireland Amateur in 1993. He often speaks of Portrush as his favourite course.


Darren Clarke is Mr. Portrush. He developed his legendary ball-striking on the links as a boy, and won the aforementioned 'North' title in 1990.


However the day pans out, one thing is for sure... the bar manager at the club better make sure he orders in enough Guinness!


Castle Stuart to open for play in July


Anticipation is mounting over the opening of Castle Stuart Golf Links near Inverness in northern Scotland. Aside from a championship links course, the resort will include a small luxury Hotel & Spa, 'resort-ownership' Lodges & Apartments, plus a second Seaside Course. Golf in the upper-reaches of Scotland is severely under-rated. For those that do make the journey, you will undoubtedly hear of the world-class golfing links on offer. Nearby Nairn hosted the Walker Cup in 1999, while Royal Dornoch is continually rated as one of the finest courses in the country. Tom Watson once famously quoted, "It's the most fun I've ever had on a golf course." When Castle Stuart adds to this abundance of quality links already on offer, I think we will see the Highlands of Scotland take off as a leading golf destination in it's own right - not just as a two day addition to the most popular itineraries in Fife and Ayshire. Mark Parsinen, Managing Partner of Castle Stuart Golf LLP, was also instrumental in the spectacular rebirth of Kingsbarns, 8 miles from St Andrews. If his new creation is anywhere near as successful, we could see the beginning of something special in the Scottish Highlands.

Fairmont St Andrews goes from strength to strength -


Connoisseur Golf has viewed the 5* Fairmont St Andrews Resort as it's preferred accommodation provider in the Home of Golf for some time.

They were the proud recipients of "Hotel of the Year" at the 2008 Golf Tourism Scotland Awards, and bolstered with their recent refurbishments we see it as the place to be when playing golf in St Andrews. Commenting on the award, Charles Head, General Manager of Fairmont St Andrews, said “This is a great achievement by our team at the hotel. We have invested £13.5 million in the resort and it is good to see that our efforts are being recognised by our colleagues in the tourism industry. With our Open qualifying Torrance course opening in summer 2009 and our new signature Spa, the hotel keeps going from strength to strength”.

With their recent collaboration with the Hilton Caledonian in Edinburgh, golfers can now experience the excitement and culture of Edinburgh in addition to their stay in St Andrews. Packages are available on a bespoke basis from Connoisseur Golf. The newly opened £2.5M Signature Spa is a haven of relaxation before or after you finish your round. From the Sam Torrance Signature Experience, you can enjoy a 90 minute 'Ultimate Golfer's Treatment' from as little as £145. The opening of the revamped Torrance Course, which will play host to Final Qualifying for the 2010 Open Championship is being eagerly awaited. The new championship layout will be available for play from August of this year, and will surely add to the plethora of world-class courses available to golfers in the North-East Fife area. Should you wish to learn more about what is available at one of the UK's finest hotels, don't hesitate to contact Graeme Dawson - Golf & Leisure Sales Manager, or Jim Stewart at Connoisseur Golf.