Tralee - The King of Kerry

The south-west of Ireland holds a multitude of legendary links courses. For most people, Ballybunion gets the nod as the finest jewel in the crown, but for me, I think Tralee is a golfing heaven on earth. Or as Wayne Westner once said, "If heaven is not like this, I don't want to go there".

Tralee was Arnold Palmer's first foray into course design anywhere in Europe. The Atlantic Ocean is clearly visible from every single hole and the views are nothing short of spectacular. It is one of those magical places where sunlight brings the humps and hollows of the fairways alive. The dunes become that little bit more noticeable as the coastal breeze sweeps through the rugged collection of grasses - waving like a beacon for balatas. The course actually begins rather benignly however, and it is possible to mix sightseeing with relatively decent scoring for the first hour or so. The first major challenge appears on the eighth. A shortish par 4 that lures the driver from your bag. Of course there is no real need, a long iron leaves a wedge or shortish club to the green. But like 99% of amateur golfers, I always hit driver... especially downwind. I can justify this by thinking that there's a slim chance of knocking it on in one. But in hindsight I can't recall ever making par. It's a classic case of showing that every hole on the scorecard doesn't need to be overly long, something that many of today's modern architects should sit up and take note. This is a great example.

If the first nine holes are beautiful, the back side is mesmerizing. Palmer humbly quoted, "I may have designed the front nine, but surely God designed the back nine". The terrain he had to work with is rather special. These holes have everything - changes in elevation, risk-reward, demanding tee-shots, shots that test every club in the bag. It is tough to pick one to focus on in particular, but the 12th is a truly fantastic golf hole. A long downhill par 4 of 460 yards, the right-side of a tight fairway is the goal off the tee. It opens out slightly after this, and everything tends to kick off to the left. There's a wall on the left and punishing rough to the right, so to finish on the short-stuff in crucial. A decent drive leaves you with a long iron or fairway wood to a raised plateau green. A deep chasm collects everything that misses to the left, and short-siding yourself isn't really an option either. Basically it's a game of hit the green in two, or work hard for your five. Walking off the green with a four here would give a feeling of tremendous satisfaction. I am yet to experience it.

On the way back to your hotel (you will most probably be based in Killarney), make a point of stopping in at The Oyster Tavern - just a few miles from the club on the Fenit coast. The bar has a great atmosphere, but better still is the quality of the seafood. The menu is very reasonably priced, and it is a great way to finish off a great day on one of Ireland's best golf courses.